One country, two systems

You have to reprogram your brain for driving on "the wrong side of the road!"

I am not sure I have ever left a place and then so obsessively studied it in the news. It is National Day and the protests literally on the streets I just walked continue. We have lost our access to any news without our virtual private network. They have taken CNN off our television in the apartment. The Chinese government says that Hong Kong is a part of their country and the people are just confused. I don't care. They can call it whatever they want, but Hong Kong is not the same country as China. Two systems mean two completely different realities. Needless to say, we really enjoyed our time in HK for, as those around here put it, we were able to "de-Wuhanize" ourselves and get back a taste of the Western culture we miss.

Key Differences: 

Language--The ability to communicate without constant translation makes a day go so much smoother! While Cantonese and Mandarin are both spoken throughout HK, we had no trouble finding an abundance of English speakers and signs. 

Money--We were introduced to yet another form of currency. Not to mention that they use coins as well as paper money for denominations up to $10. Everything is substantially more expensive in Hong Kong, but not as expensive as NYC would be. I found myself going grey from trying to do a different mental math conversion to USD. That said, imported food was cheaper. We came home with the largest jar of peanut butter you have ever seen and a box of 52 Quaker instant oatmeal packets because they were so reasonable.

The overall opulence was evident throughout the city. It is absolutely no exaggeration to say that if you removed the taxis, at least half the cars were Porsche, Audi, Lexus, BMW, or Mercedes.

Food--You will just laugh if I were to I tell you the wonderful foods that we had on our trip mostly because YOU have them available to you at every corner throughout the US.  We had not seen decent American beers and steaks in too long! Even though Wuhan has its own ....variety of "seafood", we had obviously a much better selection. We went to a famous crab restaurant where they smothered the giant guy with spices, and also frequented an Outback Steakhouse where we had simply one of the best steaks we've had in a looooong time. One night I had nachos made with a base of Doritos nacho cheese chips at a restaurant called Trafalgar Brewery (isn't that funny?) and an Italian meal of mushroom risotto that knocked my socks off. Josh had BBQ ribs and the boys had real pepperoni pizza. Just to have bread brought out as an appetizer is a concept that we have missed for 10 weeks. Yes, I gained weight despite the heat and carrying Tucker throughout the city. 

Ogling a gorgeous bakery and its offerings.

Religion--From the church listings on the city map to the billboard "Jesus is Lord," we knew we were in different place immediately. But it is still Asia, so there was substantial evidence of Taoism or Confucianism. Nearly all the businesses and restaurants around town had one of these "street shrines" at floor level, near doorsteps, where incense was burned by shop owners. Sometimes we also saw food or flowers, like oranges, left as well.

Height--Like major cities of the West, to enjoy HK you had to look up or get where you could get a good view of the skyline. I have read that the skyline is considered the best in the world. I do not disagree. With a half a dozen of the world's tallest buildings in one small space, it was impressive. At night they have a light show viewable from the mainland. We went up the tram to Victoria's Peak high above the city and also enjoyed the scenery from the Star Ferry which crosses the harbor.

Our pollution filled view from the Peak.

Appreciated beauty-- Unlike the heavily littered and poorly maintained free spaces we have seen thus far throughout China, HK had an abundance of lovely free parks and trails. We did not let these go to waste. Hong Kong Park in Central district, which is in the heart of the area now filled with those voicing their desire for freedom, was enjoyed by us on two different days. It had the most splendid foliage and ponds filled with turtles sunning themselves on rocks and koi. 

The boys on Hong Kong trail at the Peak.

Tired boys in the park with the Lippo twin-tower skyscrapers behind them.

fun fountain in Hong Kong city park

Shopping-- Oh my! We knew that we were entering a shopping haven before we arrived, but they were not kidding! I had my share of drooling in the most packed and cheapest camera equipment store ever, which was conveniently just two blocks from our first hotel. Street shopping provided enjoyment especially for the boys when we found we were just a handful of blocks from Toy Street. Discounted toys of all kinds called longingly to our children in voices not audible to us. There may or may not have been massive crying fits. (No photographic evidence to prove or dispute.)

Clothing in the street with toy stores one after other behind them.

These two images really capture the juxtaposition of Hong Kong. They strike me especially because they were taken one after the other on my camera. The first shows the high brow, expensive shopping options of the city. Every major designer was represented. I saw three Tiffany and Co. stores alone. Yet, you could walk out of the shopping mall, literally go a block, and see a whole different world of back alley Asian market shopping that I have become so accustomed to.

I spy a pig's face and feet. 

After five nights of hotel life with Josh working and getting new Chinese visas, we left Hong Kong island and went to Disneyland Hotel. I will post that experience in a whole different blog. But first, here are some of my favorite HK island pictures:

The kids proved that they would be unfettered by our very modest accommodations. Our hotel room in the Wan Chai district was literally no bigger than my college dorm room. With our two twin beds and absolutely no room to walk (or play) Tucker was "situation normal" if he had access to his beloved Cars. The light in our hotel was gorgeous and one day I caught him playing.

 Big boys also found toy stores of their own.

Little Man proved to be a big man walking many miles and riding the trolley in a seat apart from us.

Hong Kong is not paradise, but it might be an Asian oasis. Had we not already successfully survived ten weeks here, I doubt that we would have appreciated it as much. The thick, humid, smoggy city air was very similar to what your kitchen would be like if you boiled lake fish in a large uncapped stewpot all day. People were pushy and not all of them had adopted the use of deodorant yet. Sidewalks were safe, yet small for the mega-sized population. Subtropical temperatures were amplified by hot buses and congested streets. Yet it had just enough of home to make it a favorite place. Our thoughts are with the citizens of Hong Kong as they protest.

Colorful, but good gracious did these fish scale stores stink.